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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian blend podi – a rubble of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

14 ounces firm potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml mild oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the components on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.